27 things to do in Knysna on the Garden Route – Roxanne Reid

The name Knysna probably comes from a Khoikhoi word meaning ‘fern’ or ‘fern leaves’, appropriate for a town surrounded by forests. Although the first farmer settled here way back in 1760, it’s largely through the efforts of British-born entrepreneur and timber merchant George Rex in the 1800s that the Knysna we know today started develop.

The Knysna Lakes area makes up a gorgeous chunk of the greater Garden Route National Park. It’s home to the endangered Knysna seahorse (see point 14), the bright-coloured Knysna turaco and narina trogon, the delicate pansy shell, dolphins and whales (see point 4). Knysna is perhaps most associated with its forests of towering yellowwood trees that are hundreds of years old and have impressive waistlines. Although some thousand elephants once roamed Knysna’s forests, today a single elusive cow still lingers.

Whatever you want from a holiday destination, Knysna can deliver – from lush indigenous forests to tranquil lakes and white beaches, from historical woodcutting, gold mining and ivory hunting sites to excellent restaurants, galleries and shops. It’s also an outdoor enthusiast’s dream, enticing you with fishing, water sports, hiking, cycling and abseiling. Here are some of my top picks of things to see and do.

1. Explore the Knysna Lagoon by boat

The Knysna Lagoon is a memorable part of the town and the best way to explore it is by boat, whether on a sunset cruise or during the day. The John Benn – named after one of Knysna’s early shipping pilots – is a double-decker floating restaurant that offers one of the most popular things to do on the lagoon. A larger paddle cruiser is also perfect for a midday cruise or sundowners. Soak up the 360-degree views of the lagoon and the Knysna Heads (see point 2). These boats have a bar on both decks and small a la carte menus. Find them at the Knysna Quays off Remembrance Avenue.

If you prefer, you can arrange a trip on a speedboat, motorised or sailing yacht, rubber dinghy or catamaran. You can even hire a self-drive houseboat from Knysna Houseboats for a holiday with a difference.

2. Visit the Knysna Heads

The Knysna Heads – two large headlands, separated by about 300m of water – form the entrance to the Knysna Lagoon. They were formed around 180 million years ago and the early days of colonial settlement in the 19th century saw many shipwrecks because the navigable channel is scarily narrow at just 90m. Knysna was an official harbour between 1818 and 1954. Today the Heads are a gateway to the sea mainly for smaller pleasure craft.

The Western Head is a protected nature reserve (see point 3) but the built-up Eastern Head has a multitude of large houses with great views for those who can afford to live there. Luckily for the rest of us, there’s also a public viewpoint at the highest point of Coney Glen Road, the small Coney Glen beach with rock pools, and at the end of George Rex Drive a nice walk along a pathway at the foot of the cliffs, where the wreck of the Paquita lies beneath the water.

3. Explore the Featherbed Nature Reserve 

The Featherbed Nature Reserve is a protected reserve on the Western Head of Knysna and is only accessible by boat. Join an eco-experience for a guided tour that tells you about its ecology, plants, bird and marine life. A 4×4 will drive you to the top where you can look out over the lagoon. Then take a 2km walk through coastal forest and fynbos, and explore caves in the sandstone cliffs where Khoi strandlopers used to live. Enjoy lagoon views, see birds like blue cranes and black oystercatchers, inhale the scent of buchu. Top off your nature experience with a nice lunch in the restaurant. 

4. Go whale watching 

For a chance to see southern right whales and humpback whales, visit Knysna from June to November each year. Research by the late Peter Best identified Knysna as the first place on the South African coast that the humpbacks come to on their long migration. You can also spot Bryde’s whales and dolphins all year round. Three of the best places for land-based whale watching are Buffalo Bay (Buffelsbaai in Afrikaans), the Goukamma Nature Reserve, and Brenton on Sea.

To get much closer to these giants in the open ocean and share the excitement of watching them breach, spyhop or lobtail, join a 1.5 to 2-hour boat-based whale watching trip with Ocean Odyssey. They’re the only permitted whale watching company in this area and love to share Knysna’s natural assets with visitors.

5. Visit the Knysna Waterfront
The Knysna Waterfront is a popular and buzzy tourist destination. Take a stroll along the waterfront, shop for souvenirs, fashion, jewellery or décor items, admire the yachts in the harbour (or even book a sailing charter), enjoy an ice cream cone as you soak up the sun, sit down for a meal at one of a number of eateries from franchises like the Spur and Ocean Basket to restaurants like 34 degrees South and the Dry Dock Food Company.

6. Visit the Big Tree & Dalene Matthee monument

At Krisjan se Nek picnic site in the Millwood section of the Knysna forests is a stone monument to Dalene Mathee, best known for her books Circles in a Forest and Fiela’s Child, both set in the Knysna forest. She died in 2005 and this monument was put up next to an 880-year-old Outeniqua yellowwood tree, where her ashes were scattered. You can hike one of the Circles in a Forest walking trails here (3km and 9km) to immerse yourself in the magic of the forest.

7. Go hiking 

The Knysna forests are beautiful natural areas perfect for hiking. I particularly enjoy the Elephant Trails (from around 6-9km depending on how much time you have) in the Diepwalle forest. Don’t miss the Big Tree at Diepwalle, also known as the King Edward VII tree – a giant yellowwood that’s more than 800 years old. Or hike the 5.6km Drupkelders Trail in the Homtini Forest, the Circles in the Forest Trails at Krisjan se Nek (see point 6) or the 3.6km round trip trail at Jubilee Creek along the stream to a waterfall and rock pool where you can swim.

There’s also hiking at Goukamma Nature Reserve on the way to Buffalo Bay. Choose between six trails from 4-15km, from beach walks to dune walks with coastal fynbos, and forest walks that offer a good chance of seeing some of the 220 species of birds recorded in the reserve. Take along your Wild Card so you won’t have to pay entry to the reserve.

Looking for a Knysna forest walking experience without getting out of breath or spending lots of time? Find the Garden of Eden trail about 16km east of town. The circular loop takes you for a short walk (about 1km) through indigenous forest of stinkwood and Outeniqua yellowood trees, with wooden bridges crossing little streams. Listen and look for the Knysna turaco with its bright green plumage and red underwings. Stop at some picnic tables and benches along the way. There’s a small entrance fee to pay.

Find out more about some of the top Knysna trails here or pop in to the Visit Knysna tourism info office at 40 Main Road, Knysna.

For something a little different, walk the 9km circular Kranshoek Hiking Trail that starts at the Kranshoek picnic site in the Harkerville forest about 23km east of Knysna. With its cliffs and rocks, indigenous forest, fynbos and gorgeous sea views, it has something of the vibe of a one-day Otter Trail. You do need to be pretty fit to enjoy all the ups and downs, which can be tough on weak knees.

8. SUP at Thesen Island
Spend a few hours on an SUP (stand-up paddle board) exploring the water channels of Knysna’s scenic Thesen Island. Thesen Island is a marina development in the Knysna estuary, consisting of nearly 20 man-made islands linked by arched bridges. Rent a board and stick to the calm main waterways if you’re a beginner (bring extra clothes to change into because you’ll no doubt get a dunking or two). If you’re experienced, explore some of the inlets and coves between the islands. No kids under 12. It’s best to book ahead. Try Ocean Odyssey or Knysna Charters.

9. Visit Belvidere’s historic stone church

The Holy Trinity Church at Belvidere is worth a visit. Although it only dates back to the 1850s, it looks like a tiny Norman-style church of the 11th and 12th centuries. It was built by George Rex’s son-in-law, Thomas Henry Duthie, and is now a national monument. The entire pulpit, except for the parapet, was carved out of a single block of stone. The bell that hangs in a niche above the main door was made in England and shipped to Belvidere, where it was dropped overboard and spent a few months underwater before it was rescued.

The last direct descendant to hold the Duthie estate in the Duthie name was Augusta Vera Duthie, a noted botanist who died in 1963 and is commemorated in a stained glass window in the church.

One thing I love about this little church is that it was designed by a woman – Sophy Gray, wife of the Bishop of Cape Town at the time. Her charming churches are scattered over the country, from Cape Town and Graaff-Reinet to Port Elizabeth and Pietermaritzburg. Another is how peaceful it is to…