By Roxanne Reid
For the locals, life in Paternoster revolves around the sea. Fishing is the historical lifeblood of the village and fishermen still go out almost every day in their colourful wooden boats. For visitors, of course, there’s more variety. Here are 20 things to do in Paternoster on the West Coast of South Africa.
Paternoster lies about 160km north of Cape Town, or almost a two-hour drive. But in appearance and atmosphere, this little West Coast fishing village is worlds apart from the Big City bustle. Here, the pace is laidback and relaxed in a way that seems timeless. White-washed cottages in Cape coast style and colourful fishing boats that go out in the hope of a good catch appear to have been caught in a time warp.
One story goes that the name Paternoster, which is Latin for Our Father, comes from the prayers of shipwrecked Portuguese sailors who made it to shore safely. Another theory suggests the local Khoisan Strandlopers who lived here some 165 000 to 90 000 years ago wore beads called Paternosters. Neither claim has been substantiated or confirmed, so you’re free to believe whichever one appeals to you most.
Let the wind and waves call to you as you walk on the beach, gaze at dolphins as they gambol in the waves. See the splash of a whale, listen to the call of kelp gulls. Watch the fishing boats come in to shore with their catch. Taste West Coast seafood and flavours in one of the village’s many good restaurants.
If all this seems too contemplative for you, knock yourself out with a multitude of adventure activities like horse riding, kayaking and e-biking. Here’s my pick of the best things to do in Paternoster.
1. Enjoy some West Coast humour
Look out for the battered windmill on your right-hand side as you drive from Vredenburg to Paternoster along the R399. Its legs still stand straight and tall but most of its blades are missing or broken and it looks sad and lost. A signage company saw an opportunity for a bit of fun and advertising too, erecting a huge blue and yellow sign with the word
Moertoegepomp. (It now also serves to remember one ‘Plakkies’ Fourie.) For those who don’t understand Afrikaans, the sign says something like ‘pumped to hell’, only a lot more pithy.
Look out for other flashes of humour too; they’re not hard to find. Like the car with the vanity licence plate declaring to any potential thieves, ‘DUS MYNE’ (this is mine).
2. Visit the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve
The Cape Columbine Nature Reserve covers some 263ha along a rocky stretch of coastline a few kilometres south-west of town. The best time to visit is in August and September, when the West Coast spring flowers are at their best. There are a number of picnic or braai spots, and camping at Tieties Bay. People like to giggle at this name but in reality it has nothing to do with boobs. The story goes that a local fisherman called Jacob Titus drowned here so the area was named Titus se Baai (Titus’ Bay) in his memory. Tietiesbaai is a mispronounciation that gained traction.
Read more about Cape Columbine Nature Reserve
3. Visit the Cape Columbine lighthouse
The lighthouse on Castle Rock inside the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is one of the last manually controlled lighthouses in South Africa. It was built in 1936. The powerful light is 80m above sea level and can be seen from about 60km away. For a small fee, the light-keeper will let you climb the 97 steps to the top of the tower to admire the view. On misty mornings in Paternoster, listen for the sound of the foghorn warning fishermen of difficult conditions.
4. Go birding
Bird watching in the area is good, with some 250 bird species to be found. Cape Columbine Nature Reserve is one of the best places at Paternoster to see a mix of land and sea birds, including herons, kestrels, francolins, cormorants, sacred ibis, seagulls, and the endangered black oystercatcher which breeds along the coast here.
5. See the spring flowers
The fields around Paternoster break into glorious colour from late July to September, but by far the best display is in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, with its carpet of white, yellow, orange and purple spring flowers. Read more about them in the link in point 2 above.
6. Go whale-watching
If you’re observant, you may be able to spot some dolphins, seals, penguins or whales during your visit to Paternoster. Although you’re most likely to see humpback whales, occasional sightings of southern right whales also occur. Thanks to the Benguela current off the West Coast, the area offers year-round whale watching, although there are usually more in October and November.
7. Go kayaking
Get energised with some sea kayaking. Paddle between the rocks to see seabirds and penguins. Go out beyond the breakers and drink in the fresh sea air to see Paternoster from a different viewpoint. You might be lucky to spot dolphins or even some humpback whales, and you’ll almost certainly be able to watch seals swimming and fishing around you.
Kayak Paternoster offers a friendly and knowledgable guide to keep you safe while you have fun. You must book ahead. The first trip of the day is at 7:00, then 8:30 and 10:00, each lasting about 60min. If the trip is cancelled because of bad weather, you’ll get a refund. Maximum group size is 16 people. The tours leave from the Paternoster Waterfront.
8. Walk on the beach
Although some people find the sea water a bit cold for swimming, the long white beaches are perfect for walking. You may even get a chance to watch traditional fishermen launch their bright-coloured wooden boats from the beach or come in to shore with their catch. On a windless day, the beach is also a good place to take a book and park under an umbrella or watch the sunset light up the sky in shades of pink and mauve. When it’s windy, try flying a kite for an infusion of fun. You might even want to get takeaway fish n chips from Ietsi Alz to eat on the beach. Find it down Seeduiker Street, behind the cement tables built for fishermen to clean their catch.
9. Go horse riding
Want to feel the wind in your hair as you ride along the beach? Whether you’re a beginner or experienced rider, you’ll enjoy an outride with Drikus Horse Trails. There are rides at 10:00 and 15:00 (although these shift to 9:30 and 16:00 when it’s very hot). Each ride along Langstrand beach lasts approximately an hour and 15min. They operate every day, except Sunday afternoons. Book ahead, no children under 8 years old. Trails start from the stables on the gravel road between Paternoster and Stompneus Bay. The turnoff is about 6km from Paternoster.
10. Go e-biking
Join a WOW e-bike tour at Cape Columbine Nature Reserve (Tietiesbaai and the lighthouse) or choose a beach tour at Paternoster at low tide. It’s easy going on these electric-powered bikes and the fat tyres give good traction on sand. If your kids can ride a bike and aren’t too small for the kiddies’ e-bikes, they’re welcome to ride along. If they’re too small – even babies – they can come in a child seat with mom or dad.
Times depend on the tides, but default times are 10:00, 13:00 and 16:00. Tours last about 90min and start from the WOW e-bike office at the Paternoster Waterfront. Remember to bring your driver’s licence or ID document if you’re South African and want to qualify for local rates.
11. See the Panty Bar at the Paternoster Hotel
The Paternoster Hotel – famous for its pub called the Panty Bar – was built in 1863 and served as a bank, church, school, library and jail before becoming a hotel in 1940. It’s been in the Carosini family for around 50 years, Afrikaners despite their Italian name and heritage. Here women’s panties of all sizes and types hang in rainbow disarray, hinting at booze-fuelled parties that may have gone a step too far.
The collection was removed in 1983 when a straight-laced dominee complained about the ‘unholy’ practice, but reinstated again in the 1990s. Local gossip has it that the hapless cop charged with removing them was forever called Panty Basson by anyone who knew the story.
12. Take in a show at Die Koelkamers
Love culture and entertainment? Browse some of the upcoming shows scheduled at Die Koelkamers at the Paternoster Waterfront and book your tickets before your visit. This is a creative place and community centre for performance art, live music, art exhibitions, and children’s theatre. Acts might include the likes of Karen Zoid, Marc Lottering, Amanda Strydom, Arno Carstens, Rumours of Fleetwood Mac Tribute Band, Dan Patlansky, and Stef Bos.
13. Visit the landmark Winkel op Paternoster
Die Winkel at Paternoster, on the corner of St Augustine Street and the R399, has long been a landmark in the village. It’s undergone a huge change since our last visit. The wooden boat and old black bicycle still greet you as you enter but the red, blue and white colour scheme has been toned down to just blue and white. It’s now called DiSpens.
Inside, the magpie muddle has gone too, in favour of a minimalist décor. There’s still a bistro where you can order a meal, and they still sell items like bread, cakes and foodie gifts, but the clutter has gone. No more pram-loads of nuts and dried fruit, no more rickety dressers stuffed with…
